BALL PYTHON
Enclosure Types
Hatchlings to 200 grams: 6 quart tub or 10 gallon tank/ 18x18x12 front opening
200 grams to 800 grams: 15quart tub or 10 to 20 gallon long tank/ 24x18x12 front opening
800 grams and up: 32 quart to 41 quart tub or 20 to 40 gallon tank/ 36x18x12 or 36x18x18 front opening
Heating
Ceramic dome fixture (dimmer switch style is ideal for temperature control)
Ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector, no red/blue/purple bulbs (they are a gimmick, the snakes can see the bright light, just perhaps not the color)
60-75 watt for 10-20 gallon, 100-150 watt for larger enclosures
Undertank heat pad, large enough to cover 1/3rd or more of the tub/tank bottom.
Thermostat, not to be confused with a thermometer, is a necessity to control the output of the heat pad and can also aid in regulation of a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector. Some pads get incredibly hot and WILL burn a snakes belly.
On/off style thermostats like an Inkbird 306T is a passable cheaper thermostat, Vivarium Electronics and the Spyderrobotics Herpstat are far superior for safety and features.
Combined heating should maintain at least 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit across entire enclosure, top to bottom, side to side, with a hotspot of 86-88 degrees.
If ambient heating is used, with no cool side and hot side, 84-86 degrees is ideal.
Substrate:
Coconut chunk bedding such as Cocoblox or reptichip or similar is superior. Do not mist, pour a cup of water directly into bedding away from direct contact heat, such as a heating pad (it can/will crack the glass of a tank), periodically to rehydrate. Frequency varies depending on ambient humidity. Do not use cold water in heated glass enclosures, the glass can crack.
Cypress bedding such as ZooMed Forest Floor is second best. Same rehydration method as coconut
Aspen can often be too dry and will mold with moisture. Fine ground coconut can sometimes get in heat pits and nostrils. Reptibark is difficult to rehydrate and can stain the snake.
NEVER use pine or cedar or fragranced bedding.
Hides
Exo Terra rock hide, black plastic hide, anything large enough that has a single entrance. Logs and other open type hides are tunnels and do not provide the security ball pythons enjoy.
Foliage, branches, décor add to enrichment and security.
Feeding
15% of the snakes bodyweight is a good rule of thumb, or the thickest part of the body plus 50% more.
Hatchlings to 200 grams: every 5-7 days
200 grams to 800 grams: every 7-10 days
800 grams and up: every 10-14 days depending on snake body condition. Many larger/older snakes, 1400 grams+ are quite comfortable feeding every 14-21 days.
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Overfeeding, especially in juvenile to adults snakes, can lead to overweight snakes and in general, causes the snake to be under regular stress from the frequency of digestion. It can also be a trigger for a snake to refuse to feed for extended periods. I have personally found varying feeding timelines and proper enclosure temps prevents the majority of feeding strikes in the species. It takes a lot of resouces for a snake to digest its meals, and can take anywhere from 10-14 days for their body to return to normal and relax from the process.
Frozen thawed tips: thaw in hot water from the sink until rodent reaches 105 degrees. Offer straight from heat, preferably while snake is in the hide. Do not move to feed, avoid touching shy snakes before feeding. "Zombie dance" the rodent with feeding tongs, rattle it in the bedding outside hide entrance a bit to encourage hunting response. Do not microwave, do not overheat.